My Bulged Barrel: The bulge is easily felt about an inch past the muzzle. Notice the inside distortion.
Choosing a barrel for this kind of project can be as difficult or easy as you want it to be. Please save yourself endless aggrevation and poor results by only considering a high-quality part. Cheap barrels fit poorly and shoot even worse! Only a high-quality barrel is worth the time and expense it takes to fit it to a 1911. My shooting ability cannot tell the difference between barrels rifled by button, broach, hammer-forged, or electro-chemical machining. Due to their quality and favorable price, I quickly settled on a standard, Kart 5” barrel for this project.
Kart’s barrel is a forged 4150 steel part made to national match standards. The one I used differs from the EZ-fit part the company offers and comes oversized in the hood, upper lug, and lower lug areas. It takes a lot more work to properly fit this type of barrel to the frame and slide. The bore came mirror smooth but I did not appreciate the sandblasted finish on the outside surfaces. In any event, Kart makes an excellent barrel that fits my project needs very well. .
I combined the Kart barrel with a stainless EGW bushing and a Ed Brown Hardcore slide-stop. The EGW bushing has a thicker design than a standard military point. The Ed Brown slide stop is a durable part and matches closely to the .195” (larger) barrel lug cutter from Brownells.
I’ll tackle the fitting this weekend and outline the steps for anyone that wants to attempt the job!
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